New Zealand Listener

Raw recruit

ike many cooks, I’ve always bought the freshest fish I could but, over the past two years, I have noticed a trend among leading chefs to age their fish. The first cook to bring this to my attention was Makoto Tokuyama, chef/owner of the much-lauded Cocoro, a Japanese restaurant in Ponsonby, Auckland. Makoto-san is a master of fish preparation and cookery, buying whole fish and ageing it from a few days to a

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