Dish

spice ODYSSEY

The plates keep on coming. A bowl of smoky aubergine purée dusted with paprika, stacks of grilled sardines and fresh-from-the-oven khubz (flatbread). Next up are conical clay tagines, the lamb falling off the bone in a cloud of cumin, saffron and bright red harissa paste, piles of steamed couscous, even a flaky pastry pie stuffed with pigeon meat, almonds, eggs and fragrant cinnamon.

Just when you think they’ve stopped, the waiter brings out blocks of nougat, thickly studded with pistachio nuts, and glasses of mint tea so sweet you’ll feel cavities forming on your teeth.

“You’ll never go hungry in Marrakesh,” says

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