MY TOP 40: PIEDMONT REDS BEYOND NEBBIOLO

It was once estimated that half the plantings in Piedmont were of Barbera, and I dare say it’s still true today. It’s a workhouse variety, but in the best sense. Its lively acidity makes it a suitable match for many Piedmontese dishes, and along with Dolcetto, it is the region’s house wine.

So it wasn’t really surprising that Barbera dominated this tasting. It’s planted throughout the region, and plays a part in many blends. Moreover, some decades ago certain producers found it responded well to then-fashionable barrique-ageing as well as traditional ageing in large casks. There’s considerable controversy about this oaked style, but it remains popular, and when the oak is well handled, it can produce a complex and satisfying wine.

There is also debate about whether Barbera d’Alba is a more successful wine than Barbera d’Asti. In the Alba zone the prime sites are reserved for Nebbiolo vines, so Barbera may not be planted in ideal locations, though assumptions about perfect locations are now being revised as a consequence of global warming. In Asti, in contrast, Barbera is king, grown in prime sites.

In practice, both regions make outstanding Barbera. There is also a ‘Superiore’ category which requires wood-ageing and minimum alcohol levels, but these are easily attained by Barbera anyway, so it seems to serve little purpose. In practice it tends to be reserved for more traditional styles – but not necessarily!

The problem in this tasting was not so much stylistic – no dogma need be applied to Barbera – as balance. Many recent vintages have been exceedingly hot, leading to overripe fruit and very high alcohols. Whether this is simply a consequence of torrid summers or it’s in part a conscious decision