Cook's Illustrated

A New Way to Cook Kale

Truth be told, I’m not a huge kale salad fan. But I also don’t like cooking kale to death: Braising can dull its distinctive flavor and turn it mushy. Wouldn’t it be nice to have something in between? In other words, a side that celebrates kale’s gutsy taste and achieves a tender (but not sodden) texture.

Right away, I decided that dry-heat methods—roasting, broiling, and sautéing—were out; they produced either brittle, crisp leaves or ones that were wet but still chewy. A

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