Climbing

Finger Flexor Pulley Injuries

You sit below the crimpy Go Granny Go (V5) on the Grandma Peabody boulder in Bishop, California. With one last effort, you lunge for the top rail. Then, suddenly, your feet skate and a loud “pop” echoes off the wall. Pain sears through the base of your middle finger—you’ve blown a digit and your climbing trip is over.

As the owner of Eastern Sierra Physical Therapy and Wellness, the author of Beyond Tape: The and a local Bishop climber, I see finger pulley injuries regularly—they’re the most common climber finger injury. To climb longer and stronger, it’s important to understand our hand anatomy and how pulley injuries happen, as well as how to prevent and treat them, and to restrengthen an injured digit.

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