SAME YARD, NEW FORTUNES

hen Sophie Grigson wrote in 2000, her definitive guide to the seafood cuisine of the time, she confessed a startling thing. She almost forgot the trout, so well loved for so very long that it had developed a peculiar sort of obscurity borne of fame. Granted, it's an oblique reference to a Norfolk boatyard, but one that might appeal to the young(ish) Rob Marriott, a keen cook and food lover who these days is in charge of driving business