Heaven spent
Beyond the window, a cascade of scenery unfolds: epic mountains, meadows and lakes of a scale that defies description. Stocked up with supplies, we’re snug within our Maui campervan. The roomy van, which includes an inbuilt GPS, kitchenette and fridge, beds, dining area, toilet and heating, will be our home on wheels for our adventure through New Zealand’s South Island.
Hot springs country
Arcing below perilously sheer cliffs, the menthol blue of the Waiau River signals we’ve reached Hanmer Springs. Winding into the villages’ pine-clad prettiness, we’re 90 minutes from Christchurch, about 1700 metres above the Canterbury plains. A popular jaunt for skiing, bungy jumping and mountain biking, it’s best known for its hot springs — boiling up from fractured rock along the Hanmer Fault.
As the sun sinks, hundreds of euphoric folk huddle in the communal heat of the 15 open-air rock, sulphur and freshwater hotpots (ranging from 28°C to a toasty 42°C). Private pools, saunas, a “lazy river” and waterslides provide more options. Massaged by a manmade waterfall, I soak in the bliss.
For those who prefer solitude, Hanmer Springs Top 10 Holiday Park offers outdoor barrel tubs for a private
