The New York Times

Madrid Chefs Rethink the City's Classic Cuisine

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

It is Friday night at Fismuler, one of Madrid’s trendiest restaurants, and the din of conversation and laughter nearly drowns out our server’s rapid-fire descriptions of the various dishes that arrive for the table, forcing some of us to crane forward in our seats. Fismuler’s food is simply presented, but there is quite a bit of narrative behind its preparation.

When it comes to food, Madrid has always been more conservative than Barcelona or San Sebastián. But in recent years, a crop

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